Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi..

Make sure you have as much of a swale around the back of your house as you
can... even if it means creating a berm a foot or so high against your house
you definately want to try to direct any and all water away from your house
and not have anything at all that can create hydrostatic pressure to force
water through the walls.

Definatley put a sump-pump in... you may even want to consider a raised
floor (even 2x4's on the side) if you can just in case there is any flooding
at all you at least have a chance to pump the water out before it gets to
the cab bottoms.

You should also think about auxiliary power to the sump-pump.... let's face
it, the most likely time to loose electricity is during a heavy storm...
*exactly* when you need the sump-pump to be operating the most. You can get
auto-starting generators for not much money (less then a grand) which may be
worth if if you're going to put a bunch of cabs down there.

good luck

steve

"Nate Goulet" <askifyouwant.TakeThisOut@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ejt042hed6mtc7cmd2ko22mhq5p0rpc620@4ax.com...
> When I was home shopping a couple years ago, finding a house with a
> decent basement was my top priority.
>
> Needless to say, I ended up with a home I really like with a not so
> great basement.
>
> Water enters the opposite side of the basement of where I plan the
> gameroom, and then over flows into the gameroom area. The foundation
> on that side is built on top of ledge. I doubt that i'll ever be able
> to completely stop any water from entering, but here's the plan:
>
> A French drain with small stones around it, dirt & then clay on top
> will be placed in back of the house where most of the water enters.
> The neigbor's property is higher up, so water flows down to mine.
> There is only about 2 - 4 feet of land in back of the house, and
> getting heavy equipment back there to properly fix this is not an
> option.
>
> Some water will still enter the basement, at least through the glacier
> ledge (i'll try to stop some of it high hydrolic cement) I'll also
> place a French drain inside that end of the basement, and then have a
> sum pump send it out a pipe that goes out the basement door.
>
> Are there any safety issues with water being down there at all?
>
> The basement is roughly 22 X 22. I'm planning on builidng a wall to
> cut the basement almost in half, so it will be more like 22 X 15 or
> something like that. The area with water would be about 5 - 6 feet
> away from the wall. Hopefully the wall would prevent much moisture
> down there. I'll probably end up using a dehumidifier if necessary. I
> haven't noticed any mold or it being real damp in the basement dispite
> water some times being there. I'm planning on using water resistant
> sheet rock for the walls.
>
> I think i'll have room for approx 17 - 20 machines. Hard to say until
> until I start moving machines in. There's also a staircase taking up
> some space, but I still think 17 - 20 machines. We'll see. Thank
> goodness for emulation. I already have most of the machines I want.
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

Thanks for the replies so far.

Where can I buy Dry-Loc? I can't find a web site for them, but i'm
finding web pages that talk about it. Sounds like it might be
helpful, but not a complete solution for my problems.

I can't raise my floor unfortunately, as it's only 6' to 6.5'.
I think I can fit the games I want down there. Time will tell.

I've been wondering if there is any type of protectant I can put
around the bottom few inches of the machines, like some type of
plastic or something, just in case it did flood? Might look strange.




On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 01:44:15 -0400, "Steve Muccione"
<home.muccione.DeleteThis@verizon.net> wrote:

>Make sure you have as much of a swale around the back of your house as you
>can... even if it means creating a berm a foot or so high against your house
>you definately want to try to direct any and all water away from your house
>and not have anything at all that can create hydrostatic pressure to force
>water through the walls.
>
>Definatley put a sump-pump in... you may even want to consider a raised
>floor (even 2x4's on the side) if you can just in case there is any flooding
>at all you at least have a chance to pump the water out before it gets to
>the cab bottoms.
>
>You should also think about auxiliary power to the sump-pump.... let's face
>it, the most likely time to loose electricity is during a heavy storm...
>*exactly* when you need the sump-pump to be operating the most. You can get
>auto-starting generators for not much money (less then a grand) which may be
>worth if if you're going to put a bunch of cabs down there.
>
>good luck
>
>steve
>
>"Nate Goulet" <askifyouwant.DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:ejt042hed6mtc7cmd2ko22mhq5p0rpc620@4ax.com...
>> When I was home shopping a couple years ago, finding a house with a
>> decent basement was my top priority.
>>
>> Needless to say, I ended up with a home I really like with a not so
>> great basement.
>>
>> Water enters the opposite side of the basement of where I plan the
>> gameroom, and then over flows into the gameroom area. The foundation
>> on that side is built on top of ledge. I doubt that i'll ever be able
>> to completely stop any water from entering, but here's the plan:
>>
>> A French drain with small stones around it, dirt & then clay on top
>> will be placed in back of the house where most of the water enters.
>> The neigbor's property is higher up, so water flows down to mine.
>> There is only about 2 - 4 feet of land in back of the house, and
>> getting heavy equipment back there to properly fix this is not an
>> option.
>>
>> Some water will still enter the basement, at least through the glacier
>> ledge (i'll try to stop some of it high hydrolic cement) I'll also
>> place a French drain inside that end of the basement, and then have a
>> sum pump send it out a pipe that goes out the basement door.
>>
>> Are there any safety issues with water being down there at all?
>>
>> The basement is roughly 22 X 22. I'm planning on builidng a wall to
>> cut the basement almost in half, so it will be more like 22 X 15 or
>> something like that. The area with water would be about 5 - 6 feet
>> away from the wall. Hopefully the wall would prevent much moisture
>> down there. I'll probably end up using a dehumidifier if necessary. I
>> haven't noticed any mold or it being real damp in the basement dispite
>> water some times being there. I'm planning on using water resistant
>> sheet rock for the walls.
>>
>> I think i'll have room for approx 17 - 20 machines. Hard to say until
>> until I start moving machines in. There's also a staircase taking up
>> some space, but I still think 17 - 20 machines. We'll see. Thank
>> goodness for emulation. I already have most of the machines I want.
>>
>>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

Try waterproof.com This stuff worked great for me, doesn't look bad
either. If you have a floor drain anywhere in the basement you can
drain to it. If you don't you can use a sump.
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

As you stated in your post. The french drain is the best way to go. I
have heard a lot of good things about dry lock but if you paint the
inside of the walls with it that means the watter has already entered
into the wall ( not the best thing) The french drain is not an easy job
but it is the best way to go. As long as you can pitch it so it drains
away from the house that should fix your problem. If you cant pitch it
away it should be brought into the house into a sump pit and then
pumped out. Ted
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

wow.. i really miss my home on the jersey shore and the inches of water
we used to get down there .. not.

here's a couple of things i've learned.

dryloc
while creating a barrier for moisture it does really only 1 thing...
keep water from the inside of the basement.. the water still has to go
somewhere.. usually it will just sit in the foundation walls eating
away at your foundation so while everything looks nice inside.. one day
you come downstairs to find the foundation collapsed and a nice pile of
muddy dirt in your basement.

sump pumps.
1st. you need to jackhammer a hole at the LOWEST part of your basement
until you reach dirt (ours was about 2 feet deep) throw in some gravel,
then drop your sump pump in there. after looking at houses it was
amazing how many sumps were actually built up into a mount in the
basement floor. unless the hole is super deep and you're basically
pumping out ground water, this doesn't make sense. buy a decent pump
that doesn't have a tethered float to turn it on and off.. they get
stuck.. sometimes don't work.. etc etc. find one where the float is
internal or slides up and down. also.. get one with a battery backup..
so when you forget to plug it in. (experience talking) you don't come
down to 4 inches of mother nature soup.

french drains..
lots of work. make sure they all pitch towards and empty into the sump
hole. i've seen people actually punch some holes in the bottom inch or
so of the wall foundation and put some pipe in there with an elbow
going down into the french drain. water usually takes the path of least
resistance so creating an outlet every few feet so it's not so inclined
to seep through the foundation isn't a bad idea.

when all else fails.. drop about 10 grand into a real waterproofing job
that will be guaranteed. it should increase your home value if you
finish the basement, though i'd suggest until you were 100% dry that
you didnt bother.

if nothing else.. i had a pretty cool idea had i bought a house with an
unfinished basement...

decorate it like an old warehouse (just like applebees, fridays, etc
decorates). find a bunch of surplus machinery, some salvaged duct work,
etc.. and create a warehouse/industrial motif. i was personally going
to create a NYC subway style motif, posters, maybe some hanging 4x8
sheets of plywood with ceramic tile on it in different areas. could
definately be done really cool.

regardless of what you do.. i'd personally suggest putting your games
on shipping pallets. they might be a little higher then normal but
you'll be pretty safe if you ever get a couple of inches of water down
there.



Steve Muccione wrote:
> Home Depot, Lowes, (sears?) Most places cary it... it's a big time product.
>
> "Nate Goulet" <askifyouwant RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:kt2142p9e6d2f702lurntkf5od0ni6o0hh@4ax.com...
> > Thanks for the replies so far.
> >
> > Where can I buy Dry-Loc? I can't find a web site for them, but i'm
> > finding web pages that talk about it. Sounds like it might be
> > helpful, but not a complete solution for my problems.
> >
> > I can't raise my floor unfortunately, as it's only 6' to 6.5'.
> > I think I can fit the games I want down there. Time will tell.
> >
> > I've been wondering if there is any type of protectant I can put
> > around the bottom few inches of the machines, like some type of
> > plastic or something, just in case it did flood? Might look strange.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 01:44:15 -0400, "Steve Muccione"
> > <home.muccione RemoveThis @verizon.net> wrote:
> >
> >>Make sure you have as much of a swale around the back of your house as you
> >>can... even if it means creating a berm a foot or so high against your
> >>house
> >>you definately want to try to direct any and all water away from your
> >>house
> >>and not have anything at all that can create hydrostatic pressure to force
> >>water through the walls.
> >>
> >>Definatley put a sump-pump in... you may even want to consider a raised
> >>floor (even 2x4's on the side) if you can just in case there is any
> >>flooding
> >>at all you at least have a chance to pump the water out before it gets to
> >>the cab bottoms.
> >>
> >>You should also think about auxiliary power to the sump-pump.... let's
> >>face
> >>it, the most likely time to loose electricity is during a heavy storm...
> >>*exactly* when you need the sump-pump to be operating the most. You can
> >>get
> >>auto-starting generators for not much money (less then a grand) which may
> >>be
> >>worth if if you're going to put a bunch of cabs down there.
> >>
> >>good luck
> >>
> >>steve
> >>
> >>"Nate Goulet" <askifyouwant RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >>news:ejt042hed6mtc7cmd2ko22mhq5p0rpc620@4ax.com...
> >>> When I was home shopping a couple years ago, finding a house with a
> >>> decent basement was my top priority.
> >>>
> >>> Needless to say, I ended up with a home I really like with a not so
> >>> great basement.
> >>>
> >>> Water enters the opposite side of the basement of where I plan the
> >>> gameroom, and then over flows into the gameroom area. The foundation
> >>> on that side is built on top of ledge. I doubt that i'll ever be able
> >>> to completely stop any water from entering, but here's the plan:
> >>>
> >>> A French drain with small stones around it, dirt & then clay on top
> >>> will be placed in back of the house where most of the water enters.
> >>> The neigbor's property is higher up, so water flows down to mine.
> >>> There is only about 2 - 4 feet of land in back of the house, and
> >>> getting heavy equipment back there to properly fix this is not an
> >>> option.
> >>>
> >>> Some water will still enter the basement, at least through the glacier
> >>> ledge (i'll try to stop some of it high hydrolic cement) I'll also
> >>> place a French drain inside that end of the basement, and then have a
> >>> sum pump send it out a pipe that goes out the basement door.
> >>>
> >>> Are there any safety issues with water being down there at all?
> >>>
> >>> The basement is roughly 22 X 22. I'm planning on builidng a wall to
> >>> cut the basement almost in half, so it will be more like 22 X 15 or
> >>> something like that. The area with water would be about 5 - 6 feet
> >>> away from the wall. Hopefully the wall would prevent much moisture
> >>> down there. I'll probably end up using a dehumidifier if necessary. I
> >>> haven't noticed any mold or it being real damp in the basement dispite
> >>> water some times being there. I'm planning on using water resistant
> >>> sheet rock for the walls.
> >>>
> >>> I think i'll have room for approx 17 - 20 machines. Hard to say until
> >>> until I start moving machines in. There's also a staircase taking up
> >>> some space, but I still think 17 - 20 machines. We'll see. Thank
> >>> goodness for emulation. I already have most of the machines I want.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

oh.. forgot to mention.. you could fill it with dirt and just build a
shed in the yard..


 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

Nate,
I have also had good success with the Dry-loc. Although it will be
difficult to get a great coat on a field stone foundation. You will
really need to be diligent at any small voids or crevices. I have a
rough brick wall and still have a couple of leaks where the dry-loc
didn't get into crevices.
It seems you have a problem similar to mine in that water flows up to
the foundation then down through the wall.

As mentioned in a previous post you will still have the water permeated
up to the other side of the wall (and probably into the wall).

You might try pouring a 2-3' wide slab, along the back of the house,
that slopes away from the foundation. In your case this probably also
wants to push the water off to the sides, so will probably need to be
humped up in the middle.

My Uncle had a similar problem and pouring the slab has kept his
basement dry for 20 years. On the other hand my father never dealt with
his flood problems effectively and has had grief for 30 years. A little
extra $ applied to this problem could save you much anguish.

My $.02 - Best of luck (you will need that too)

Bob
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

Home Depot, Lowes, (sears?) Most places cary it... it's a big time product.

"Nate Goulet" <askifyouwant RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kt2142p9e6d2f702lurntkf5od0ni6o0hh@4ax.com...
> Thanks for the replies so far.
>
> Where can I buy Dry-Loc? I can't find a web site for them, but i'm
> finding web pages that talk about it. Sounds like it might be
> helpful, but not a complete solution for my problems.
>
> I can't raise my floor unfortunately, as it's only 6' to 6.5'.
> I think I can fit the games I want down there. Time will tell.
>
> I've been wondering if there is any type of protectant I can put
> around the bottom few inches of the machines, like some type of
> plastic or something, just in case it did flood? Might look strange.
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, 15 Apr 2006 01:44:15 -0400, "Steve Muccione"
> <home.muccione RemoveThis @verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>Make sure you have as much of a swale around the back of your house as you
>>can... even if it means creating a berm a foot or so high against your
>>house
>>you definately want to try to direct any and all water away from your
>>house
>>and not have anything at all that can create hydrostatic pressure to force
>>water through the walls.
>>
>>Definatley put a sump-pump in... you may even want to consider a raised
>>floor (even 2x4's on the side) if you can just in case there is any
>>flooding
>>at all you at least have a chance to pump the water out before it gets to
>>the cab bottoms.
>>
>>You should also think about auxiliary power to the sump-pump.... let's
>>face
>>it, the most likely time to loose electricity is during a heavy storm...
>>*exactly* when you need the sump-pump to be operating the most. You can
>>get
>>auto-starting generators for not much money (less then a grand) which may
>>be
>>worth if if you're going to put a bunch of cabs down there.
>>
>>good luck
>>
>>steve
>>
>>"Nate Goulet" <askifyouwant RemoveThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:ejt042hed6mtc7cmd2ko22mhq5p0rpc620@4ax.com...
>>> When I was home shopping a couple years ago, finding a house with a
>>> decent basement was my top priority.
>>>
>>> Needless to say, I ended up with a home I really like with a not so
>>> great basement.
>>>
>>> Water enters the opposite side of the basement of where I plan the
>>> gameroom, and then over flows into the gameroom area. The foundation
>>> on that side is built on top of ledge. I doubt that i'll ever be able
>>> to completely stop any water from entering, but here's the plan:
>>>
>>> A French drain with small stones around it, dirt & then clay on top
>>> will be placed in back of the house where most of the water enters.
>>> The neigbor's property is higher up, so water flows down to mine.
>>> There is only about 2 - 4 feet of land in back of the house, and
>>> getting heavy equipment back there to properly fix this is not an
>>> option.
>>>
>>> Some water will still enter the basement, at least through the glacier
>>> ledge (i'll try to stop some of it high hydrolic cement) I'll also
>>> place a French drain inside that end of the basement, and then have a
>>> sum pump send it out a pipe that goes out the basement door.
>>>
>>> Are there any safety issues with water being down there at all?
>>>
>>> The basement is roughly 22 X 22. I'm planning on builidng a wall to
>>> cut the basement almost in half, so it will be more like 22 X 15 or
>>> something like that. The area with water would be about 5 - 6 feet
>>> away from the wall. Hopefully the wall would prevent much moisture
>>> down there. I'll probably end up using a dehumidifier if necessary. I
>>> haven't noticed any mold or it being real damp in the basement dispite
>>> water some times being there. I'm planning on using water resistant
>>> sheet rock for the walls.
>>>
>>> I think i'll have room for approx 17 - 20 machines. Hard to say until
>>> until I start moving machines in. There's also a staircase taking up
>>> some space, but I still think 17 - 20 machines. We'll see. Thank
>>> goodness for emulation. I already have most of the machines I want.
>>>
>>>
>>
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

Hello Nate,
All the suggestions given thus far are the way to go for sure. Best thing
to do is ALL OF THEM.Dry Loc on fieldstone will work, but as one mentioned
the water still get into the wall and it WILL find a way in. There is not
much you can do about that except doing something to the outside...which 2-4
ft is not enough room to play with.
French drain, sump pump and a dehumidifier. Dry Loc is a popular product and
availalbe anywhere. It is thick stuff and does not go very far....it also
reaks so ventilate. DO NOT USE SPARINGLY.
raising the floor is an excellent idea, however 2x4's laying flat may not be
the way to go. If water gets in there. The 2x4's will actually hold moisture
there a lot longer. If you don't use pressure treated, obviously they will
rot. Even using pressure treated, the moisture is still there. You don't
want that. An egg crate style sub flooring is the way to go for that. It
allows for a lot more breathability throughout.

"Nate Goulet" <askifyouwant DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ejt042hed6mtc7cmd2ko22mhq5p0rpc620@4ax.com...
> When I was home shopping a couple years ago, finding a house with a
> decent basement was my top priority.
>
> Needless to say, I ended up with a home I really like with a not so
> great basement.
>
> Water enters the opposite side of the basement of where I plan the
> gameroom, and then over flows into the gameroom area. The foundation
> on that side is built on top of ledge. I doubt that i'll ever be able
> to completely stop any water from entering, but here's the plan:
>
> A French drain with small stones around it, dirt & then clay on top
> will be placed in back of the house where most of the water enters.
> The neigbor's property is higher up, so water flows down to mine.
> There is only about 2 - 4 feet of land in back of the house, and
> getting heavy equipment back there to properly fix this is not an
> option.
>
> Some water will still enter the basement, at least through the glacier
> ledge (i'll try to stop some of it high hydrolic cement) I'll also
> place a French drain inside that end of the basement, and then have a
> sum pump send it out a pipe that goes out the basement door.
>
> Are there any safety issues with water being down there at all?
>
> The basement is roughly 22 X 22. I'm planning on builidng a wall to
> cut the basement almost in half, so it will be more like 22 X 15 or
> something like that. The area with water would be about 5 - 6 feet
> away from the wall. Hopefully the wall would prevent much moisture
> down there. I'll probably end up using a dehumidifier if necessary. I
> haven't noticed any mold or it being real damp in the basement dispite
> water some times being there. I'm planning on using water resistant
> sheet rock for the walls.
>
> I think i'll have room for approx 17 - 20 machines. Hard to say until
> until I start moving machines in. There's also a staircase taking up
> some space, but I still think 17 - 20 machines. We'll see. Thank
> goodness for emulation. I already have most of the machines I want.
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

Yes there are many issues if you have water down there.#1 is Stachibatris
Mold which is deadly.
"Steve Muccione" <home.muccione.DeleteThis@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:wtadncWf7IzFGt3ZnZ2dnUVZ_s6dnZ2d@comcast.com...
>
> "Nate Goulet" <askifyouwant.DeleteThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:ejt042hed6mtc7cmd2ko22mhq5p0rpc620@4ax.com...
>> When I was home shopping a couple years ago, finding a house with a
>> decent basement was my top priority.
>>
>> Needless to say, I ended up with a home I really like with a not so
>> great basement.
>>
>> Water enters the opposite side of the basement of where I plan the
>> gameroom, and then over flows into the gameroom area. The foundation
>> on that side is built on top of ledge. I doubt that i'll ever be able
>> to completely stop any water from entering, but here's the plan:
>>
>> A French drain with small stones around it, dirt & then clay on top
>> will be placed in back of the house where most of the water enters.
>> The neigbor's property is higher up, so water flows down to mine.
>> There is only about 2 - 4 feet of land in back of the house, and
>> getting heavy equipment back there to properly fix this is not an
>> option.
>>
>> Some water will still enter the basement, at least through the glacier
>> ledge (i'll try to stop some of it high hydrolic cement) I'll also
>> place a French drain inside that end of the basement, and then have a
>> sum pump send it out a pipe that goes out the basement door.
>>
>> Are there any safety issues with water being down there at all?
>>
>> The basement is roughly 22 X 22. I'm planning on builidng a wall to
>> cut the basement almost in half, so it will be more like 22 X 15 or
>> something like that. The area with water would be about 5 - 6 feet
>> away from the wall. Hopefully the wall would prevent much moisture
>> down there. I'll probably end up using a dehumidifier if necessary. I
>> haven't noticed any mold or it being real damp in the basement dispite
>> water some times being there. I'm planning on using water resistant
>> sheet rock for the walls.
>>
>> I think i'll have room for approx 17 - 20 machines. Hard to say until
>> until I start moving machines in. There's also a staircase taking up
>> some space, but I still think 17 - 20 machines. We'll see. Thank
>> goodness for emulation. I already have most of the machines I want.
>>
>>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

I do this type of this as part of my home improvement business. If
you've got a seepage only problem(water table related or just during
rains?). If it's an all the time wetness, it's water table
related...install a drywell outside, and possibly a sump inside.
If the walls are rough, do a smoothing coat of cement over the whole
wall, being carefull to fill voids/joints as you go, then install a
dewatering channel along the bottom(you'll need to drill some holes,
and these kits are available at most home improvement
stores...instructions are easy to follow). Drylock works best on
cement/brick, but is a real pain on rough stone foundations due to the
deep and irregular joints, which have to be filled with special sealant
to work. Do you have pics? If you post/email pics, I'd take a look
and give some ideas.
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

Thanks everyone, and keep the suggestions coming.

It's been nearly 2 years since we purchased the house, and after a
couple of years research i'm about to start tackling the water
proofing job any day now that it's warm enough.

I will probably do some of this work myself, with the help of someone
who is handy (not me, but i'm learning). I want to start seeing the
ball rolling. I'm not worried if it's a slow process and takes all
year working a little at a time, as long as I can see it's getting
done and I have a good idea what needs to be done. For now I have a
place nearby to keep my games. Once I think it's water proofed, i'll
still wait a few more months for a good rain storm before starting to
put up the wall & finish the basement. I'll need an electrician to
add more breakers to the fuse box or get a stronger one.

Is 100 AMP service enough for about 20 19" video games? The box
doesn't look too old, but some of the wiring in the basement does.
I'll probably need it replaced.

I'd like to raise the floor or the machines, but with a ceiling of 6'
to 6.5', doesn't seem like that will be possible. Maybe I can raise
some of the machines.

Is there anything I can put around the bottom of the machines without
raising them that will protect them from water?

I had a few professionals look at the basement, but none of them
seemed to really want to job for some reason. But they said, you can
probably take care of this yourself however. I'm guessing they
figure they can't guarantee it or something. I can't really afford to
throw many thousands of dollars just on the water proofing at this
point, but i'm willing to spend a few grand if needed. I'll also need
to invest in finishing the basement, but I have someone that will help
me on that.

Any idea in the ball park of would it might cost to have an
electrician install more breakers in the box , more outlets & replace
some of the old wiring? The house is about 100 years old.

The plans for the game room are two make it look like an old 80s
arcade. I want to install several black lights from the ceiling, etc.

Putting up new walls in front of the crumbling field stone walls
should make the room look decent.

I'm wondering if there is an easy way to make the dry wall removable
so I can maintain the crumbling walls that will be covered up in back
of the new wall? Maybe use screws instead of nails, and remove dry
wall sheets when needed?

I'll post some pics soon so that maybe the group will have a better
idea of what i'm dealing with. I really want to get the game room
going. I've been patient waiting 2 years to research how to water
proof it.
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi.. 

Thanks for the tips. I will post some pics soon.

I've never heard of a Drywell before. Appreciate the info.

I'm in RI near the Mass & CT boarder. I'm willing to pay someone who
is knowledgeable to work with me and provide some direction to help me
complete the task of solving my water problems. Show me how to
perform the task by doing some of the work, and i'll do the rest once
I understand.

Where are you located by the way wellbee RemoveThis @excite.com? You sound like
someone i'd consider hiring if you were close enough.

I don't have $10,000 to dish out, but it seems from all the research
and people i've had looked at it, adding a French drain inside &
outside of the house, installing a sum pump and some of the other
things we've talked about should be able to be done for under a couple
grand. Especially if i'm willing to do whatever work I need to do
myself. I'd just like some guidance. I have a lot of patience, and
there isn't a rush to complete this. But i'm axious to get started
now that it's been 2 years and spring is here again.

Nate




On 15 Apr 2006 10:31:23 -0700, wellbee RemoveThis @excite.com wrote:

>I do this type of this as part of my home improvement business. If
>you've got a seepage only problem(water table related or just during
>rains?). If it's an all the time wetness, it's water table
>related...install a drywell outside, and possibly a sump inside.
>If the walls are rough, do a smoothing coat of cement over the whole
>wall, being carefull to fill voids/joints as you go, then install a
>dewatering channel along the bottom(you'll need to drill some holes,
>and these kits are available at most home improvement
>stores...instructions are easy to follow). Drylock works best on
>cement/brick, but is a real pain on rough stone foundations due to the
>deep and irregular joints, which have to be filled with special sealant
>to work. Do you have pics? If you post/email pics, I'd take a look
>and give some ideas.
>
 >> Stay informed about: Any ideas on solving basement water problems for an old fi..