[40k] [FB] New Beast of Nurgle?

It was twenty years ago today, relkins taught the band to play:
> Data: Fully functional and anatomically correct.
>
If you're into disgrace he will cover your face with his android antifreeze.

--
Kurt *Kill the nospam to reply*

Chaos. They spread the love for the gods through the universe,
destroying the infidels. Kind of like Catholics, but with cooler wargear.

-- RGMW outtake
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"Kurt" <kolonelk DeleteThis @gnospammail.com> wrote in message
news:47b13fa9$0$98053$c30e37c6@pit-reader.telstra.net...
> It was twenty years ago today, relkins taught the band to play:
>> Data: Fully functional and anatomically correct.
>>
> If you're into disgrace he will cover your face with his android
> antifreeze.

Dude, does Voltaire rock or what?
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It was twenty years ago today, relkins taught the band to play:
> "Kurt" <kolonelk.RemoveThis@gnospammail.com> wrote in message
> news:47b13fa9$0$98053$c30e37c6@pit-reader.telstra.net...
>> It was twenty years ago today, relkins taught the band to play:
>>> Data: Fully functional and anatomically correct.
>>>
>> If you're into disgrace he will cover your face with his android
>> antifreeze.
>
> Dude, does Voltaire rock or what?
>
I downloaded the mp3s (except the live album, can't find that) and in
the process of getting them all ordered in on import.

--
Kurt *Kill the nospam to reply*

Chaos. They spread the love for the gods through the universe,
destroying the infidels. Kind of like Catholics, but with cooler wargear.

-- RGMW outtake
 >> Stay informed about: [40k] [FB] New Beast of Nurgle? 

Kurt wrote:

> If you want lessons in pain, look at some of the Confrontation figures
> with spindly little joints, especially some of the Lion and Griffin
> ones. There's just no contact surface at all, and you can't build the
> joints up with green stuff or it just looks like a glandular problem.

Word! And the metal is soft.

--
1f u c4n r34d th1s u r34lly n33d t0 g37 l41d
Rob Singers
RGMW FAQ Maintainer. See it @ http://www.rgmw.org
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"Robert Singers" <rsingers DeleteThis @finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:20080214082837.2648.1222.XPN@monkeyrgmw.org...
> Kurt wrote:
>
>> If you want lessons in pain, look at some of the Confrontation figures
>> with spindly little joints, especially some of the Lion and Griffin
>> ones. There's just no contact surface at all, and you can't build the
>> joints up with green stuff or it just looks like a glandular problem.
>
> Word! And the metal is soft.

At least the softer metal is easier to drill holes for pins. But finding
pins small enough for skinny little wrist joints can be difficult.


--

-smithdoerr
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"smithdoerr" <smithdoerr.TakeThisOut@someplace.else> wrote in message
news:TIOdnc4hacaFySnanZ2dnUVZ_tSknZ2d@comcast.com...
>
> "Robert Singers" <rsingers.TakeThisOut@finger.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:20080214082837.2648.1222.XPN@monkeyrgmw.org...
>> Kurt wrote:
>>
>>> If you want lessons in pain, look at some of the Confrontation figures
>>> with spindly little joints, especially some of the Lion and Griffin
>>> ones. There's just no contact surface at all, and you can't build the
>>> joints up with green stuff or it just looks like a glandular problem.
>>
>> Word! And the metal is soft.
>
> At least the softer metal is easier to drill holes for pins. But finding
> pins small enough for skinny little wrist joints can be difficult.
>

Finding pins? Pah! I use actual sewing pins - I go to a fabric shop and
buy straight pins of all sizes and lengths. Typically I have 1.5 inch,
1.25 inch, 1 inch, 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch straight pins in my 'gear' box.
And the push-head, when it is cut-off to make a pinning joint, is a dynamite
rivet for scratch-building armor plating.

--
MJB

Mr. Tin's Miniature Painting Workshop:
http://web.newsguy.com/Mrtinsworkshop/
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"MJB" <mrtinj.DeleteThis@OLDsguy.com> wrote in message
news:fp1l3n0ibm@news4.newsguy.com...
>
> "smithdoerr" <smithdoerr.DeleteThis@someplace.else> wrote in message
> news:TIOdnc4hacaFySnanZ2dnUVZ_tSknZ2d@comcast.com...

>> At least the softer metal is easier to drill holes for pins. But finding
>> pins small enough for skinny little wrist joints can be difficult.
>>
>
> Finding pins? Pah! I use actual sewing pins - I go to a fabric shop and
> buy straight pins of all sizes and lengths. Typically I have 1.5 inch,
> 1.25 inch, 1 inch, 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch straight pins in my 'gear' box.
> And the push-head, when it is cut-off to make a pinning joint, is a
> dynamite rivet for scratch-building armor plating.

What's the diameter of those? I used to live near a hobby store that had
brass rods of all different shapes and diameters (1mm diameter rounds being
the smallest I use) so I have a large supple of pin material. But sewing
pins are a good idea for people who don't.

--

-smithdoerr
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"smithdoerr" <smithdoerr.TakeThisOut@someplace.else> wrote in message
news:Uomdnb52-td0winanZ2dnUVZ_gidnZ2d@comcast.com...
>
> "MJB" <mrtinj.TakeThisOut@OLDsguy.com> wrote in message
> news:fp1l3n0ibm@news4.newsguy.com...
>>
>> Finding pins? Pah! I use actual sewing pins - I go to a fabric shop and
>> buy straight pins of all sizes and lengths. Typically I have 1.5 inch,
>> 1.25 inch, 1 inch, 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch straight pins in my 'gear' box.
>> And the push-head, when it is cut-off to make a pinning joint, is a
>> dynamite rivet for scratch-building armor plating.
>
> What's the diameter of those? I used to live near a hobby store that had
> brass rods of all different shapes and diameters (1mm diameter rounds
> being the smallest I use) so I have a large supple of pin material. But
> sewing pins are a good idea for people who don't.
>

I don't know what the diameter of commerical sewing pins are - it's not
listed on the package. I can tell you that the largest pins are much
heavier and thicker than the smallest pins. So there is a sliding scale of
thickness of the soft-steel pins.

I've never understood people who use brass rod for pinning. I uses a lot of
different materials and have never had any reason to use brass.

Florist wire - it comes in sheaths with a LOT of light gauge wire that you
can snip with a pair of light pliers and it's bendable. I use it all the
time for pinning plastic to metal parts or even light plastic-to-plastic
joints. It makes posing some of those round 'ball armm joints' GW is now
fond of a snap.

20 gauge copper wire - comes in a spool and is very stiff in short lengths.
I pinned each of the Balrog's wings with three seperate lengths of 20 guage
copper wire. And was able to wiggle the holes in the wings over the wire
quite easily because there was enough give in the wire to make a 'flexiable'
fit possible. You can even getter copper wire in heavier gauge than 20, but
I find that adequate for my needs.

Solid-core silver solder - Heavy gauge and readily available. Granted, it
will melt before the soft metal does... but if you expose your miniatures to
that sort of heat, you've got other problems.

Finishing nails - if you really, really, REALLY have to have the strength of
hard steel in your joint. Just clip the head off at the length you need and
you're good to go.

<shrug>

Sewing push-pins is the basic answer to me. I have all the other material
around, but I mostly just use push-pins.


--
MJB

Mr. Tin's Miniature Painting Workshop:
http://web.newsguy.com/Mrtinsworkshop/
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"MJB" <mrtinj.RemoveThis@OLDsguy.com> wrote in message
news:fp1ocf0lsm@news4.newsguy.com...

> I've never understood people who use brass rod for pinning.

If don't understand why a person would use brass I could clue you in
(although I already gave one reason in my other post) but if you really
don't understand people, as your sentence suggests, then I'm afraid I can't
help you.


--

-smithdoerr
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"smithdoerr" <smithdoerr.TakeThisOut@someplace.else> wrote in message
news:xP-dnalAv_0u6SnanZ2dnUVZ_oKhnZ2d@comcast.com...
>
> "MJB" <mrtinj.TakeThisOut@OLDsguy.com> wrote in message
> news:fp1ocf0lsm@news4.newsguy.com...
>
>> I've never understood people who use brass rod for pinning.
>
> If don't understand why a person would use brass I could clue you in
> (although I already gave one reason in my other post) but if you really
> don't understand people, as your sentence suggests, then I'm afraid I
> can't help you.
>

I parsed that sentence twice and it still didn't make any sense to my aged
brain. So I can only assume that Cheshire has just stolen your nic and is
posting under another 'nym.

Goddamn you Cheshire!

Goddamn you to hell!

<smirk>

Honestly, my chief issue with brass rod is availabilty. I live in a town
without a well-stocked or well-run hobby store - so I generally have to rely
upon what I can find at the local ACE hardware or Michael's arts & crafts
store for my modeling needs. Which means I can't even buy sheet styrene or
landscaping materials locally. So I have to already order all my plasticard
and all my flocking over the 'net - I'm not really interested in adding
brass rod to my mailorder list if I have readily available substitutes at
hand.

--
MJB

Mr. Tin's Miniature Painting Workshop:
http://web.newsguy.com/Mrtinsworkshop/
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Hey,

On Feb 14, 2:18 pm, jockelinde <nou... RemoveThis @notmydomain.se> wrote:

> I use paperclips for pinning, and then availability is not a problem.

One good reason to use brass rod for pinning is its dimensioning.
The brazing rod sold in hardware stores is graded by its diameter.
This makes choosing an appropriate clearance drill a simple task.

Another good reason is common use of steel diagonal cutters.
It's always Steel-1, Brass-0 every time you make a cut -
Even cheap diags remain undamaged indefinitely.

Finally, larger diameters may be used for Bionics/ Hydraulics, etc.
Even 3/16in brass rod cuts with hand tools easily and safely.

No matter what you use, a drill gauge can help size the pilot holes.


Pla - I'm sure there's an inuendo in there somewhere - ya
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<JohnPaulPontiff.RemoveThis@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1ae47f1e-6f2b-4ba9-9b8a-202989d62afb@i12g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>
>
> One good reason to use brass rod for pinning is its dimensioning.
> The brazing rod sold in hardware stores is graded by its diameter.
> This makes choosing an appropriate clearance drill a simple task.

'dimensioning'
'appropriate clearance drill'

WTF? Are you a freakin' engineer?

>
> Another good reason is common use of steel diagonal cutters.
> It's always Steel-1, Brass-0 every time you make a cut -
> Even cheap diags remain undamaged indefinitely.

A 'good' diags will do even better. One thing my Pops beat into my head was
never buy cheap tools. They'll always fail you right when you need them.

>
> Finally, larger diameters may be used for Bionics/ Hydraulics, etc.
> Even 3/16in brass rod cuts with hand tools easily and safely.

'Bionics/Hydraulics'

You ARE an engineer!

>
> No matter what you use, a drill gauge can help size the pilot holes.
>
>
> Pla - I'm sure there's an inuendo in there somewhere - ya
>

Only if you're chief engineer on a submarine full of seamen...

--
MJB

Mr. Tin's Miniature Painting Workshop:
http://web.newsguy.com/Mrtinsworkshop/
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On 2008-02-14, MJB <mrtinj.DeleteThis@OLDsguy.com> wrote:
<snip>
> Honestly, my chief issue with brass rod is availabilty.

I use paperclips for pinning, and then availability is not a problem.

--
Joakim
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