Tempest Problems...

There is a ton of material on the Web about Tempest and testing your
game board. If all your transistors on the monitor are good, then you
need to check the input voltages to your deflection board. Tempest
should put out between -5 and +5 volts to the Deflection board. Usually
one of the chips on the board fails which then puts out too high a
voltage which fries transistors and blows fuses. There is info on which
pins to check etc.

I don't have any documentation in front of me. You should also check
the resistors and transistor underneath the big white resistor just
above the F600 fuse. Make sure they are good. I'm sure somebody will
jump in here with specifics. Just Google troubleshooting Tempest and
you should find scads of material. There are any number of things that
can cause these problems and sometimes it is multiple issues. I just
finished a Tempest a little over a month ago with 3 separate issues.
Just when you think you have it licked you find another problem.

Pat D.

Kirk S. wrote:
> My Tempest has been showing signs of failure... I replaced a few of the
> yoke transistors (2n3716 & 2n3792) and all seemed well. The game would
> lockup and would reset it. The game sat unplayed for several months, I
> reset the ROMs and cleaned everything up. I was just playing and got to the
> red levels when the screen went black. I shut the game down and let it sit
> for several minutes. I turned it back on and nothing; going into the test
> screens doesn't bring anything up either. The spot-killer is lit, F600
> glowed and burned out.
>
> Is my game board bad? I've seen some info about using an o-scope to view
> the pattern. Blanking won't work however it should show the game.
>
> Suggestions? I've ordered some new power transistors (2n3716 & 2n3792) and
> will replace F600 with a 3Amp SB fuse. The low power section has been
> replaced with an LV1600; neither of the main fuses blow... All of the caps
> were done as well...
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Kirk S.
>
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Tempest Problems... 

Yepper... That would be me... After working on the inlines, I seem to have
forgotten everything I know about my arcade games.

There is lots of info out there on the monitor however I haven't seen much
of anything on the main boards themselves. I've got a couple of spares that
are probably DOA as well. I'll pull the boards and start doing the standard
diode test (clip red lead to ground and probe around looking for shorts) on
components in the output area. The game will start and play dark and the
slam switch advances thru the test screens. I've got a scope that I can
hook up to the XY output and see what the output looks like.

The latest failures have been occuring after long periods of game play.

I've got some new transistors ordered. Found some info that MJ15003/4s can
be used in place of the 2N3716/92s. The voltage and current ratings are
highter on the MJs and they might last a bit longer.

Thanks for the info. I'm a lot more familiar and comfortable with the older
Williams stuff. Theory of Operation has waveforms and details circuit
descriptions. Haven't been able to find anything like that about Tempest...

Kirk S.

"Clams Canino" <cc-marine.RemoveThis@earthdink.net> wrote in message
news:13qmn8ume86rf5@corp.supernews.com...
> Are you the same Kirk S. I think you are??
>
> -W
>
> "Kirk S." <crayzkirk.RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:47aa9c9f$0$6158$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> > My Tempest has been showing signs of failure... I replaced a few of the
> > yoke transistors (2n3716 & 2n3792) and all seemed well. The game would
> > lockup and would reset it. The game sat unplayed for several months, I
> > reset the ROMs and cleaned everything up. I was just playing and got to
> the
> > red levels when the screen went black. I shut the game down and let it
> sit
> > for several minutes. I turned it back on and nothing; going into the
test
> > screens doesn't bring anything up either. The spot-killer is lit, F600
> > glowed and burned out.
> >
> > Is my game board bad? I've seen some info about using an o-scope to
view
> > the pattern. Blanking won't work however it should show the game.
> >
> > Suggestions? I've ordered some new power transistors (2n3716 & 2n3792)
> and
> > will replace F600 with a 3Amp SB fuse. The low power section has been
> > replaced with an LV1600; neither of the main fuses blow... All of the
> caps
> > were done as well...
> >
> > Thanks in advance...
> >
> > Kirk S.
> >
> >
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: Tempest Problems... 

On Feb 8, 5:07 am, "Kirk S." <crayzk... DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
> Yepper... That would be me... After working on the inlines, I seem to have
> forgotten everything I know about my arcade games.
>
> There is lots of info out there on the monitor however I haven't seen much
> of anything on the main boards themselves. I've got a couple of spares that
> are probably DOA as well. I'll pull the boards and start doing the standard
> diode test (clip red lead to ground and probe around looking for shorts) on
> components in the output area. The game will start and play dark and the
> slam switch advances thru the test screens. I've got a scope that I can
> hook up to the XY output and see what the output looks like.
>
> The latest failures have been occuring after long periods of game play.
>
> I've got some new transistors ordered. Found some info that MJ15003/4s can
> be used in place of the 2N3716/92s. The voltage and current ratings are
> highter on the MJs and they might last a bit longer.
>
> Thanks for the info. I'm a lot more familiar and comfortable with the older
> Williams stuff. Theory of Operation has waveforms and details circuit
> descriptions. Haven't been able to find anything like that about Tempest...
>
> Kirk S.
>
> "Clams Canino" <cc-mar... DeleteThis @earthdink.net> wrote in message
>
> news:13qmn8ume86rf5@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
>
> > Are you the same Kirk S. I think you are??
>
> > -W
>
> > "Kirk S." <crayzk... DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >news:47aa9c9f$0$6158$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> > > My Tempest has been showing signs of failure... I replaced a few of the
> > > yoke transistors (2n3716 & 2n3792) and all seemed well. The game would
> > > lockup and would reset it. The game sat unplayed for several months, I
> > > reset the ROMs and cleaned everything up. I was just playing and got to
> > the
> > > red levels when the screen went black. I shut the game down and let it
> > sit
> > > for several minutes. I turned it back on and nothing; going into the
> test
> > > screens doesn't bring anything up either. The spot-killer is lit, F600
> > > glowed and burned out.
>
> > > Is my game board bad? I've seen some info about using an o-scope to
> view
> > > the pattern. Blanking won't work however it should show the game.
>
> > > Suggestions? I've ordered some new power transistors (2n3716 & 2n3792)
> > and
> > > will replace F600 with a 3Amp SB fuse. The low power section has been
> > > replaced with an LV1600; neither of the main fuses blow... All of the
> > caps
> > > were done as well...
>
> > > Thanks in advance...
>
> > > Kirk S.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Your problem is in the monitor. Once your game is warmed up one of the
diodes or transistors is breaking over. I would start by changing
Q704,703 and their compliment, Q604 and 703. If that doesn't work I
would look at the schematic and change their respective pre-driving
transistors. Good Luck.
 >> Stay informed about: Tempest Problems... 

"Amused4u" <bandcclark.RemoveThis@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:cf2feaec-8f33-4e59-b348-bba2f7994321@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> On Feb 8, 5:07 am, "Kirk S." <crayzk....RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > Yepper... That would be me... After working on the inlines, I seem to
have
> > forgotten everything I know about my arcade games.
> >
> > There is lots of info out there on the monitor however I haven't seen
much
> > of anything on the main boards themselves. I've got a couple of spares
that
> > are probably DOA as well. I'll pull the boards and start doing the
standard
> > diode test (clip red lead to ground and probe around looking for shorts)
on
> > components in the output area. The game will start and play dark and
the
> > slam switch advances thru the test screens. I've got a scope that I can
> > hook up to the XY output and see what the output looks like.
> >
> > The latest failures have been occuring after long periods of game play.
> >
> > I've got some new transistors ordered. Found some info that MJ15003/4s
can
> > be used in place of the 2N3716/92s. The voltage and current ratings are
> > highter on the MJs and they might last a bit longer.
> >
> > Thanks for the info. I'm a lot more familiar and comfortable with the
older
> > Williams stuff. Theory of Operation has waveforms and details circuit
> > descriptions. Haven't been able to find anything like that about
Tempest...
> >
> > Kirk S.
> >
> > "Clams Canino" <cc-mar....RemoveThis@earthdink.net> wrote in message
> >
> > news:13qmn8ume86rf5@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> >
> >
> > > Are you the same Kirk S. I think you are??
> >
> > > -W
> >
> > > "Kirk S." <crayzk....RemoveThis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > >news:47aa9c9f$0$6158$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> > > > My Tempest has been showing signs of failure... I replaced a few of
the
> > > > yoke transistors (2n3716 & 2n3792) and all seemed well. The game
would
> > > > lockup and would reset it. The game sat unplayed for several
months, I
> > > > reset the ROMs and cleaned everything up. I was just playing and
got to
> > > the
> > > > red levels when the screen went black. I shut the game down and let
it
> > > sit
> > > > for several minutes. I turned it back on and nothing; going into
the
> > test
> > > > screens doesn't bring anything up either. The spot-killer is lit,
F600
> > > > glowed and burned out.
> >
> > > > Is my game board bad? I've seen some info about using an o-scope to
> > view
> > > > the pattern. Blanking won't work however it should show the game.
> >
> > > > Suggestions? I've ordered some new power transistors (2n3716 &
2n3792)
> > > and
> > > > will replace F600 with a 3Amp SB fuse. The low power section has
been
> > > > replaced with an LV1600; neither of the main fuses blow... All of
the
> > > caps
> > > > were done as well...
> >
> > > > Thanks in advance...
> >
> > > > Kirk S.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Your problem is in the monitor. Once your game is warmed up one of the
> diodes or transistors is breaking over. I would start by changing
> Q704,703 and their compliment, Q604 and 703. If that doesn't work I
> would look at the schematic and change their respective pre-driving
> transistors. Good Luck.

You think the issue is with the MPSU07 (Q604/Q704) and MPSU57 (Q603/Q73) on
the main board? I think I upgraded those to NTE49s and NTE50s back when I
installed the LV2000 low power board and cap kit. I spent a bunch on NTE
capacitors, too...

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna check the interboard wiring as well as well
as verify the XY deflection signals from the main board look reasonable. At
times, the game board has locked up with weird vectors on the screen. The
monitor, cabinet and main boards all have the same serial number on them.
Is that pretty rare?

Thanks again!

Kirk
 >> Stay informed about: Tempest Problems... 

On Feb 9, 3:13 pm, "Kirk S." <crayzk... DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
> "Amused4u" <bandccl... DeleteThis @sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
>
> news:cf2feaec-8f33-4e59-b348-bba2f7994321@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Feb 8, 5:07 am, "Kirk S." <crayzk... DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > Yepper...  That would be me...  After working on the inlines, I seem to
> have
> > > forgotten everything I know about my arcade games.
>
> > > There is lots of info out there on the monitor however I haven't seen
> much
> > > of anything on the main boards themselves.  I've got a couple of spares
> that
> > > are probably DOA as well.  I'll pull the boards and start doing the
> standard
> > > diode test (clip red lead to ground and probe around looking for shorts)
> on
> > > components in the output area.  The game will start and play dark and
> the
> > > slam switch advances thru the test screens.  I've got a scope that I can
> > > hook up to the XY output and see what the output looks like.
>
> > > The latest failures have been occuring after long periods of game play..
>
> > > I've got some new transistors ordered.  Found some info that MJ15003/4s
> can
> > > be used in place of the 2N3716/92s.  The voltage and current ratings are
> > > highter on the MJs and they might last a bit longer.
>
> > > Thanks for the info.  I'm a lot more familiar and comfortable with the
> older
> > > Williams stuff.  Theory of Operation has waveforms and details circuit
> > > descriptions.  Haven't been able to find anything like that about
> Tempest...
>
> > > Kirk S.
>
> > > "Clams Canino" <cc-mar... DeleteThis @earthdink.net> wrote in message
>
> > >news:13qmn8ume86rf5@corp.supernews.com...
>
> > > > Are you the same Kirk S. I think you are??
>
> > > > -W
>
> > > > "Kirk S." <crayzk... DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > > >news:47aa9c9f$0$6158$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> > > > > My Tempest has been showing signs of failure...  I replaced a few of
> the
> > > > > yoke transistors (2n3716 & 2n3792) and all seemed well.  The game
> would
> > > > > lockup and would reset it.  The game sat unplayed for several
> months, I
> > > > > reset the ROMs and cleaned everything up.  I was just playing and
> got to
> > > > the
> > > > > red levels when the screen went black.  I shut the game down and let
> it
> > > > sit
> > > > > for several minutes.  I turned it back on and nothing; going into
> the
> > > test
> > > > > screens doesn't bring anything up either.  The spot-killer is lit,
> F600
> > > > > glowed and burned out.
>
> > > > > Is my game board bad?  I've seen some info about using an o-scope to
> > > view
> > > > > the pattern.  Blanking won't work however it should show the game.
>
> > > > > Suggestions?  I've ordered some new power transistors (2n3716 &
> 2n3792)
> > > > and
> > > > > will replace F600 with a 3Amp SB fuse.  The low power section has
> been
> > > > > replaced with an LV1600; neither of the main fuses blow...  All of
> the
> > > > caps
> > > > > were done as well...
>
> > > > > Thanks in advance...
>
> > > > > Kirk S.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Your problem is in the monitor. Once your game is warmed up one of the
> > diodes or transistors is breaking over. I would start by changing
> > Q704,703 and their compliment, Q604 and 703. If that doesn't work I
> > would look at the schematic and change their respective pre-driving
> > transistors. Good Luck.
>
> You think the issue is with the MPSU07 (Q604/Q704) and MPSU57 (Q603/Q73) on
> the main board?  I think I upgraded those to NTE49s and NTE50s back when I
> installed the LV2000 low power board and cap kit.  I spent a bunch on NTE
> capacitors, too...
>
> Thanks for the info.  I'm gonna check the interboard wiring as well as well
> as verify the XY deflection signals from the main board look reasonable.  At
> times, the game board has locked up with weird vectors on the screen.  The
> monitor, cabinet and main boards all have the same serial number on them.
> Is that pretty rare?
>
> Thanks again!
>
> Kirk- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

The interboard connectors are the weakest link in the board-set
typically not the wiring. If you have good soldering skills you need
to remove the existing solder on each pin, let cool and re-solder them
on each board. As for the weird vectors that could be an intermittent
connection on one of the edge connectors and account for all of your
symptoms. You need to remove the edge connector and look into it
making sure that pins are making a good contact with the board. If
that is not the problem the wire end of one or more of the pins could
need re-ataching.

Good Luck.
 >> Stay informed about: Tempest Problems... 

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 >> Stay informed about: Tempest Problems...