I've done all the basics like clean the bezel, glass, etc. The barrel
is clear. The monitor actually has really good color and I've played
with the brightness but haven't turned it up to an "ugly" level like it
sounds like you recommend trying. I've got to admit I don't know how
to degause a monitor tube.
All the solder joints looked good and when I test the ground on the gun
connector with the live wire it's coming through at a little over 11
volts. I believe this is supposed to be 13 so not sure if this is
enough of a difference to cause a problem. One thing that's strange is
if I touch certain parts of the opto board the volts drop down to only
about 5. I don't know enough about boards to know if this is normal or
not. Is a scope something relatively inexpensive to pick up? I've got
minimal experience repairing arcade games but have a Golden Tee I got
running and went through several opto boards trying to get ones that
work. It seems these are usually the part that goes. Someone
mentioned on an older post about testing the diode with a volt meter
while shining a flashlight at it. Should this really work?
RJ wrote:
> The test screen I believe is for monitor test. Have you tried:
>
> Cleaning the monitor glass.
> Cleaning the Bezel glass
> Cleaning the mirror. damp cloth only
>
> Turning the brightness and the screen up. It might not look pretty.
> Degause the tube.
> check the tube with a tube checker/rejuvinator.
>
> You might have to cap the monitor to bring hte colrs and brightness
> back.
>
> Removing any out side light that might be interfering.
> Checking the connector into the main board for cold solder joints.
> Checking the optical diode for cold solder joints.
> Checking your ground to the gun.
> Check the barrel for obstructions.
>
> A scope will tell you if your diode is working along with the support
> circuit.
>
> RJ >> Stay informed about: Operation Wolf Gun